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Lalam24

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Posts posted by Lalam24

  1. That's good. It's the guarantee that milliput is hard as rock once cured, and yet the white I bought wouldn't ever really cure. But I easily have more faith in Apoxie/fixit sculpt.

     

    Thanks, dude. It took at least 2 months, and I spent a very large amount of time pondering how the joint setup would be. I'm glad you like it.

     

    On to Sonic -- the Nendo Sonic is going up for preorder tomorrow. Here are some recent images:

    nendo1h.jpg

    nendo2.jpg

    nendo3.jpg

    nendo4.jpg

  2. When someone references "sagging", I immediately assume it's during the cure of the piece. However, after working with milliput, I'm curious as to whether or not the objects sag AFTER cure. This wouldn't make much sense, considering it's used for action figures that are meant to be handled constantly, but, again, after the experience with milliput (which may have just been it being really god damn old) I really don't know.

     

    Considering there was already a decent figure of Young Link available (or, at least, existing), there would've been little to no point to sculpt an entirely new one without it looking better in some fashion. The intent was to make sure I had a TOY of young link, at a nice scale, and an overall good appearance. There are some basic things that look a bit sloppy, but they really don't bother me all that much. And it isn't a thick paint sloppy, it's just a mispaint sort of deal, or a rough texture to certain areas in the sculpt.

     

    Have you ever worked with super sculpey? If you have, could you tell me whether or not it's easier working with apoxie sculpt or fixit? I mean, aside from the obvious benefits you get from the two, the sculpting alone plays a big part on my end. If I'm in complete need of a durable product, I'll simply cast it.

  3. Why'd you purchase such a dark hue?

     

    Also, from what I've been reading, Fixit seems to hold its shape better than apoxie sculpt. I would've assumed that fixit wouldn't be as good of a sculpting medium, considering it was originally meant for just filling gaps/repairing and such, but from every review I've seen, it really seems to have some benefits over AS.

     

    I wouldn't know, however, because, like the poorfag I am, I'm still using super sculpey. While it's a fantastic sculpting medium, its durability is pretty poor. I cook mine in a special way to ensure that it's hard enough to hold its own as a basic action figure... but, if I drop the thing at all, it will break (oddly enough, he's fallen on his head (hat) at least 4 times now, and nothing's cracked/snapped off).

  4. For the painting I do I use Tamiya Acrylics. They're one of the best brands you can get IMO. They're just hard for me to get because only Hobbytown has them and that's always a 30 minute drive from here.

    They're considered to be one of the best model paints. And, to be frank, after seeing results from so many different brands, they seem to be the best to date.

  5. Wakeangel uses specific brands. I'm always discussing this sort of thing with him; he isn't using random kiddie paints you find at walmart.

     

    Regardless, most base acrylics are for canvas painting/general painting. Not plastic or items that need a strong bond.

     

    Try modelmaster acrylics. Go to Hobby Town USA or Hobby Lobby -- make sure they aren't enamel.

  6. Eggman Nega! I finished it the other day, I'll upload the photos to deviantart tomorrow, but here's the youtube video of it.

     

     

    What kind of paint are you using? It looks incredibly thick and, to be frank, poorly places. This is less of an account on your abilities but more the materials you're working with.

  7. That depends on what it is. Again, you really shouldn't be using any form of standard clay to sculpt any action figures/custom pieces. Super sculpey is a cheap man's medium, because it's a good sculpting compound, but it still isn't that durable. Apoxie sculpt is very durable once dry.

  8. LaLaM, you need to give us a lesson on how to properly make customs. You're the most knowledgeable person here when it comes to that kind of stuff =P.

    Use appropriate/proper tools, and a medium that isn't absolute #$##. Super Sculpey is the best you can get when it comes to baking clay -- if you're using colored clay, you're doing it wrong. Regardless, the best to get when it comes to custom figures is Ave's Apoxie/Fixit Sculpt.

     

    Don't use simple walmart-bought acrylics. Look for Tamiya/ModelMaster/paints that state they're meant for MODELS. Try to avoid enamel if you're not willing to spend months training with a paint/spend a very large amount of money on thinner.

     

    Buy sand paper. I really don't know what it is you're sculpting, but I can guarantee that it will have to be sanded -- you will never find a professional sculpture artist producing works of quality that haven't been sanded in some format.

     

    Tigger knows what he's talking about. HyperTails, I would advise that you listen to him.

  9. Because I know we have a lot of DBZ fans here:

    trunksn.jpg

     

    trunksss.jpg

     

     

    Introducing S.H. Figuarts Trunks!

     

    Created through direct consumer feedback from the U.S. comes one of the most heavily requested Dragon Ball Z characters! And because we heard you, Trunks comes with both normal and Super Saiyan head/face pieces! Tamashii Nations and Bluefin is proud to present this U.S. and Tamashii Web Exclusive item! Coming May 2012. U.S. MSRP $48.99

     

    Swords x2!!!!!

    ...

    Interchangeable hand parts: 7 right hands, 5 left hands (plus the two attached to figure means 14 hand parts total)

     

    Interchangeable face parts: 8 interchangeable faces (4 Normal, 4 Super Saiyan)

    US release = Amazon and specialty shops. Nothing like TRU or Target.

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