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Fix yellowed V1 Storm Shadows?


Ren

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Well, I started reading the linked thread with some scepticism......but by the end......by golly, I think that fellow may have actually found a viable solution to the vexing problem of yellowing plastics!

 

My biggest concern is something he did touch upon........namely after about 3 weeks of testing there's been no sign of the plastic suffering at all.

My own concern would be that the plasticizers would somehow be chemically compromised, and result in the tensile strength of the plastic going to crap.

Its the plasticizers reacting to the environment ( sunlight, smoke, temperatures etc) that causes the plastic to turn yellow win the first place, so reverse-bleaching the plastic has got to do something to the plasticizers.

 

I'm going to run this by a buddy of mine who is a chemist ( and a GIJOE collector) and see what he thinks about it.

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True Arrow,

But I noticed on his Transformer clones, (The cheap eraser looking ones) he bends them back and forth showing how the plastic is still soft and flexible. It's important to note just as the original poster does that this is early testing, so exercise caution on what toys you subject to this treatment.

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thanks for the share. Painting w/ white is harsh even with just touch ups so this is very helpful. I think time will show wither it weakens the figure or not.

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True Arrow,

But I noticed on his Transformer clones, (The cheap eraser looking ones) he bends them back and forth showing how the plastic is still soft and flexible. It's important to note just as the original poster does that this is early testing, so exercise caution on what toys you subject to this treatment.

 

One thing to note is that his Transformer clones were faded by the chemical. The before picture is actually what it is supposed to look like.

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I'm going to run this by a buddy of mine who is a chemist ( and a GIJOE collector) and see what he thinks about it.

I'm very interested in hearing his answers, as it sounds likes he's pretty much the perfect person to pitch this idea at. Please let us know what he has to say.

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so what is in the jar? i read thru it and im still not sure exactly what it is? 30% peroxide and what else? i have a bottle and i use it on cuts but ive never had it turn my skin white? maybe i missed a section of this guys post....catch me up brothers.

 

TM

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I know one of my mom's ex-boyfriends used to brush his teeth with the stuff, something about him being a smoker and helpting his teeth keep what little whiteness they had, lol...

 

Anyone have a big say... 6 foot vat of that stuff I can borrow, so I can put my huge R2-D2 cooler in it and get rid of his yellow legs, lol

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I went ahead and grabbed a bottle of 35% solution (it's in the mail) and will be testing this out. I've got several RAH figures to work with, and hopefully this will pan out and I can fix the yellowing on my 1987 Payload who mysteriously started turning last year even though he's never been exposed to anything to make him do that.

 

It's my understanding that you don't mix it with anything, and that it works by sealing the parts in a glass jar and setting it in the direct sunlight so the it "activates" over a period of 12 to 48 hours. The ambient air temp also has to do with how fast it works as well. I do expect to see some paint discoloration though, as is shown on a few of the parts.

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Exactly, I believe that the solution is just Hydrogen Peroxide with a minimum 30% concentration stated directly on the bottle, which I believe is quite a bit stonger than the normal Hydrogen Peroxide you find in the brown bottle at the drugstore.He said it's available @ health stores? I never seen it, although health stores and I seldom cross paths.

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Exactly, I believe that the solution is just Hydrogen Peroxide with a minimum 30% concentration stated directly on the bottle, which I believe is quite a bit stonger than the normal Hydrogen Peroxide you find in the brown bottle at the drugstore.

Yup. I just checked the bottle in my bathroom. It's only 3%.

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I'm going to run this by a buddy of mine who is a chemist ( and a GIJOE collector) and see what he thinks about it.

I'm very interested in hearing his answers, as it sounds likes he's pretty much the perfect person to pitch this idea at. Please let us know what he has to say.

 

I sent the email off this morning, so when he replies I'll be sure to post his response here for all to see.

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sounds like alot of waiting i may just kick it up a notch or 2......I think im gonna take the stuff from my medicine cabinet pour it in a cup, throw in a yellow snow job (screws removed) and nuke it in the microwave for a few minutes and see what happens????

 

ill let you guys know if it works.......if i survive?

 

TM

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sounds like alot of waiting i may just kick it up a notch or 2......I think im gonna take the stuff from my medicine cabinet pour it in a cup, throw in a yellow snow job (screws removed) and nuke it in the microwave for a few minutes and see what happens????

 

ill let you guys know if it works.......if i survive?

 

TM

 

I'll be in the fallout shelter! :D

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sounds like alot of waiting i may just kick it up a notch or 2......I think im gonna take the stuff from my medicine cabinet pour it in a cup, throw in a yellow snow job (screws removed) and nuke it in the microwave for a few minutes and see what happens????

 

ill let you guys know if it works.......if i survive?

 

TM

 

You may want to consider removing the T-hook too. ;)

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um... yeah, I wouldn't microwave it at all...

 

Hydrogen peroxide, either in pure or diluted form, can pose several risks:

 

* Above roughly 70% concentrations, hydrogen peroxide can give off vapor that can detonate above 70 °C (158 °F) at normal atmospheric pressure.[citation needed] This can then cause a boiling liquid expanding vapor explosion (BLEVE) of the remaining liquid. Distillation of hydrogen peroxide at normal pressures is thus highly dangerous.

* Hydrogen peroxide vapors can form sensitive contact explosives with hydrocarbons such as greases. Hazardous reactions ranging from ignition to explosion have been reported with alcohols, ketones, carboxylic acids (particularly acetic acid), amines and phosphorus.[citation needed] The saying is "peroxides kill chemists".[citation needed]

* Concentrated hydrogen peroxide, if spilled on clothing (or other flammable materials), will preferentially evaporate water until the concentration reaches sufficient strength, at which point the material may spontaneously ignite. [23][24]

* Concentrated hydrogen peroxide (>50%) is corrosive, and even domestic-strength solutions can cause irritation to the eyes, mucous membranes and skin.[25] Swallowing hydrogen peroxide solutions is particularly dangerous, as decomposition in the stomach releases large quantities of gas (10 times the volume of a 3% solution) leading to internal bleeding. Inhaling over 10% can cause severe pulmonary irritation.[citation needed]

* Low concentrations of hydrogen peroxide, on the order of 3% or less, will chemically bleach many types of clothing to a pinkish hue. Caution should be exercised when using common products that may contain hydrogen peroxide, such as facial cleaner or contact lens solution, which easily splatter upon other surfaces.

* Large oral doses of Hydrogen peroxide on a 3% concentration may cause "irritation and blistering to the mouth,(which is known as Black Hairy Tongue) throat, and abdomen", as well as "abdominal pain, vomiting, and diarrhea". [26]

* Vitiligo is an acquired skin disorder with the loss of native skin pigment, which affects about 0.5-1% of the world population. Recent studies have discovered increased H2O2 levels in the epidermis and in blood are one of many hallmarks of this disease.[27]

 

 

 

lol... Black harry toungue

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sounds like alot of waiting i may just kick it up a notch or 2......I think im gonna take the stuff from my medicine cabinet pour it in a cup, throw in a yellow snow job (screws removed) and nuke it in the microwave for a few minutes and see what happens????

 

ill let you guys know if it works.......if i survive?

 

TM

 

RIP TM! @hmmm@

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Here's the reply from my chemist buddy:

 

I think the big question here is just what is likely going on with this?

 

Let's talk about what is happening with the plastic first. Plastics generally contain a uv inhibitor which slows the "yellowing" from exposure to uv radiation. Since Hydrogen Peroxide is an oxidizer it has the same effect vinegar has on metal. A tiny layer is removed from the surface and as a result the plastic is not as strong as before the application.

 

Another factor to consider is.... white plastic is very easy to "stain" from cigarette smoke and other pollutants, so the Hydrogen Peroxide may just be cleaning a very dirty plastic. Oxidizers are powerful cleaners.

 

 

Cole Parmer does not recommend storing a 30% Hydrogen Peroxide solution in LDPE( Low Density Polyethylene), which is used to make a lot of toys. I would not recommend extended soaking with parts you treasure.After reading the thread you linked, I observed that sunlight was a key component in this magical transition. All I can say is Sunlight(heat) is a catalyst and should accelerate a process.

 

I would encourage anyone to try less aggressive chemicals, before attempting this method.Vinegar is an excellent cleaner for oxidized metals. Formula 409 and Krud Kutter are excellent plastic cleaners and are much safer than Hydrogen Peroxide.

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Here's the reply from my chemist buddy:

 

I think the big question here is just what is likely going on with this?

 

Let's talk about what is happening with the plastic first. Plastics generally contain a uv inhibitor which slows the "yellowing" from exposure to uv radiation. Since Hydrogen Peroxide is an oxidizer it has the same effect vinegar has on metal. A tiny layer is removed from the surface and as a result the plastic is not as strong as before the application.

 

Another factor to consider is.... white plastic is very easy to "stain" from cigarette smoke and other pollutants, so the Hydrogen Peroxide may just be cleaning a very dirty plastic. Oxidizers are powerful cleaners.

 

 

Cole Parmer does not recommend storing a 30% Hydrogen Peroxide solution in LDPE( Low Density Polyethylene), which is used to make a lot of toys. I would not recommend extended soaking with parts you treasure.After reading the thread you linked, I observed that sunlight was a key component in this magical transition. All I can say is Sunlight(heat) is a catalyst and should accelerate a process.

 

I would encourage anyone to try less aggressive chemicals, before attempting this method.Vinegar is an excellent cleaner for oxidized metals. Formula 409 and Krud Kutter are excellent plastic cleaners and are much safer than Hydrogen Peroxide.

 

Now the question is, has anyone tried Formula 409 or Krud Kutter on yellowed toys? @lol@

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