Gijoe Custom "how To" Area

[Toiletmonkey1]

Custom How To Area!!

 

 

 

this is the place to share all your customizing tips and tricks got a good idea about how to seperate arms from figures , have you found an awsome paint that works well on gijoe figures post it here!

 

Only one rule...not to clutter up the section with praise posts and conversation posts just heres how i do this then leave it. does that make sense that way the custom help needer can or can not find what he needs quickly?

 

you will still post your own customs in your own threads as normal,

 

 

a great big thank you goes out to three storms for making this thread a sticky and with that making our dreams come true!

 

TM

 

go ahead an post those custom ideas!

[JoeRhyno]

Here's some pics from a little walk through I was planning on awhile back... you can basically get the idea, if you put the same method towards the elbow that I did to the shoulder

This is basically used for a couple reasons...

• Upper and lower arm swapping
  
• Taking arms apart to sand and paint
  
• Swapping shoulder joints/pegs to get a different color
  
• And I'm sure many more reasons...
  

First the tools, for this project you only need the arms, the flat head screwdriver and either boiling water, or what I use, a hair dryer.

 

The first thing I do is put the hair dryer towards the spot I want to take apart, I basically do it for about a minute, just twisting the arm in my hand so it get's heated all the way through.

 

When it's soft enough, you can easily put a flat head through the small gap between the little shoulder joint and the actual upper arm.

 

Now you want to carefully pry the upper arm away from the shoulder joint, and then the "peg" should pop out(it's best to use the side that has the "smaller hole". If you look at both peg holes on the shoulder one's smaller than the other, if you go with the small side, you can push it through the bigger hole after you have it apart).

 

When it's done, it should look like this.

 

Now, to pop apart the swivel part of the upper arm and the lower arm, take your blow dryer again and go over the part you want to take apart, here, it's the swivel joint, again, I usually go over it for about a min.

 

Then you slowly POP the two joints apart

 

Well, that's all I had, I'll update it when I get a camera lol.. if you wanted to use the boil method, just use the water where I use the hair dryer

good luck!

[Crimson Twins]

And now Joe's signature can return to normal size.

[slewis]

I might as well be the one who brings this up, 'cause it's gonna happen sooner or later, but what kind of paint does everyone use?

 

Personally, I just started using citadel paint, which I'm finding is much better than the testors acryl I used to use (less flaking/rubbing). Of course, it costs about 3x as much, but thats life. I've also used reaper paints with mixed results. For clearcoats I use testors dullcote.

[Crosshair]

And for those who use the boil and pop method to get arms apart, how do you put the arm into the boiling water? Just put it on a spoon? Dip it in with your fingers? Any help would be appreciated!

[Toiletmonkey1]

And for those who use the boil and pop method to get arms apart, how do you put the arm into the boiling water? Just put it on a spoon? Dip it in with your fingers? Any help would be appreciated!

@loll@ i think maybe some salad tongs might do the trick if you have them handy? or pliers i dont think you would have to stick with kitchen utensils just because your in the kitchen! i wouldnt use my fingers because you might get burned (happened to me!)

 

TM

[xhairs]

i just put the arm or amrs in the pot and then scopp them out with a spoon.

[revsears]

Citedal paint, all the way

 

I usualy don't do the boil method, it works just the same holding it (or setting it) very near a hot light bulb for awhile. Boil is quciker, but usualy i can set the arms aside while i'm painting something else/ or whatever. And if my wife caught me "cooking" joes she might hit me with the pan i was useing lol.

[BrotherShane]

And for those who use the boil and pop method to get arms apart, how do you put the arm into the boiling water?  Just put it on a spoon?  Dip it in with your fingers?  Any help would be appreciated!

I boil the water in the microwave for roughly a minute (varying by microwave) usually in a bowl, then I just hold the arm with my hand for 10 to 20 seconds and that does the trick. I might add, I don't stick my hand in the water - I just hold the part of the arm, I need to detach/attach in the water.

 

Although, since JoeRhyno posted his method in the forum - I actually prefer the blow-dryer. I think it's a little easier (thanks Joe!).

[Draven79]

I use tester's acrylic but am trying to switch citadel thanks to Joe and Bekker. It seems to be the best.

Draven

[revsears]

OKay i got one, I've seen mutiple people shorten shipwreck's legs. I know they cut and sand but what is the best glue to use? and how do they sand to make it look even? is there any chance of an editoral for that?

[Toiletmonkey1]

OKay i got one, I've seen mutiple people shorten shipwreck's legs. I know they cut and sand but what is the best glue to use? and how do they sand to make it look even? is there any chance of an editoral for that?

i did this once, i cut 1/4 of an inch out of the leg and i used some glue i had in the ol' tool box! it was a small tube used to reattach the rearview mirror in my truck! that stuff will hold!!! i didnt try to paint over it so i dont know how that would work but the glue is good and can be found at any auto parts store!

 

 

TM

[xhairs]

i use the supper glue from wallmart and for paint i use game workshop paint

[batman13252000]

what type of sand paper do u use or what is the sanding for ? tried painting one once but it looked all coated and thick when is the perfect time to sand

[SentinelPrime]

A few months ago, I went on a paint buying spree, I was determined to find the ultimate paint for Joes.

 

I went around and bought a couple of bottles each of Reaper, Citadel, Testor's Acryl, Testor's Model Master Acryl and Tamiya. I also bought some clear coats and even a bottle of sealer, just to experiment.

 

After much testing, I can say beyond a shadow of a doubt the absolute best results came from using the Testors Model Master Acryl, using 2, maybe 3 coats. Flat paint is the only way to go, unless you're doing belt buckles, or shiny leather like boots. The Model Master dries enough for additional coats in a little over a hour, and if you're patient and let it sit for 2 days, the stuff is permanent, like factory paint. I found the Reaper/Citadel to be too thin and it actually scratched off unlike the Model Master. And the MM dries with ZERO brush strokes.

 

Just wash the parts in soap and water, and that's it. No primer, and especially no added clear coats, because that just makes the figure thicker around the joints.

 

Also, if you have a figure where say, the face is all shiny, just hit it with a flat clear coat. Perfect.

 

Keep in mind, though, that at this point there are many different plastics that have been used over the years, so you'll always find one part here and there that's stubborn.

 

I have never sanded after painting, but sometimes before can help paint bond if the piece is stubborn.

[revsears]

what type of sand paper do u use or what is the sanding for ? tried painting one once but it looked all coated and thick when is the perfect time to sand

 

I have tried the testors at wal-mart but not the model masters kind, can't find it, but i usualy dont' have problem swith the the citedal chipping anywhere but the joints and i just sand those first and then it's all good.

head to lowes and get a dremel kit. It's hand held sander that's small with different attachment sizes, perfect for the hobby.

 

oh and thanks TM.

[cobrasaboteur]

Here's a question i hope to get answered...What type of paint will match up to the faceplates on the RAH viper, or original CobraCommander??? You know, that silver thats also on figs like silver pads grand slam. thanks

 

-saboteur

 

by the way...SICK THREAD!!

[TnT]

I use Apple Barrel acrylic paints, they work great for me. My 1st custom was with testor enamel, and it was a disaster, but my latest custom, looks great, I just have to seal him with some testors dull coat.

[Toiletmonkey1]

I use Apple Barrel acrylic paints, they work great for me. My 1st custom was with testor enamel, and it was a disaster, but my latest custom, looks great, I just have to seal him with some testors dull coat.

however the testors silver enamel you know the kind in the old glass bottle for model cars...it's so dang close to the silver on silverpads grand slam it aint funny i touched up one scratch on mine with it and you can not tell where it was at all! as for the cobra face plates? they always seemed more dark gray then silver? on CC at least!

 

 

TM

[zweiman]

this sort of belongs here. whats the best way to get zartan v1. apart to change the o-ring?

[cobrasaboteur]

this sort of belongs here. whats the best way to get zartan v1. apart to change the o-ring?

Good question, in fact i think it was one of the first threads i ever posted when i came here. The way i do it now is to shove some plyers into the o-ring hole and pry it open quickly. I've done this with 4 or 5 v1 zartans, and some did it much easier than others. If you're lucky, no warping of the plastic will occur. If you're not lucky, the hole will be more of an oval. Just dont do what i did once, and remember to take the screw out of the back. @smilepunch@

 

-saboteur

[slewis]

Whats the best way to avoid paint rubs on the joints, particularly shoulder/elbow joints? I've tried sanding, clearcoating, and plain old extra layers of paint. Anyone have any proven methods?

[Sephron13]

Whats the best way to avoid paint rubs on the joints, particularly shoulder/elbow joints? I've tried sanding, clearcoating, and plain old extra layers of paint. Anyone have any proven methods?

Ooh, that's an excellent question, I second it!

 

Also, to those who make diostories, what is the best material in making bases? I don't want to just make a "set", but an actual base that my nephews can use as a toy, ya know? I was thinking of a wooden frame, with some strong cardboard for the walls/floors...that way it's pretty sturdy, but at the same time, more portable.

[revsears]

Whats the best way to avoid paint rubs on the joints, particularly shoulder/elbow joints? I've tried sanding, clearcoating, and plain old extra layers of paint. Anyone have any proven methods?

I used to do it the hard way, Cutting the edges with a knife, but now that i have a dremel kit that's the way to go and works fine for me.

[Phalanxx]

For Rub areas (shoulders, hips, knees, elbows) I usually sand the area down and then after a few coats of paint, I add a coat of DecoArt's Multi-Purpose sealer. I makes a very smooth surface and I vary rairly get paint rubs.

 

The only down side is that it tends to have a glossiness to it. To tone down the glossiness issue, I usually mix the sealer with the paint I'm using. The sealer drys clear and doesn't have any affect on the paint color when mixed.