Painting Guide! All The Techniques And Tricks!

[Jin Saotome]

You spoke, I heard, my fingers answered (and it wasn't the "bird"!) Presenting the new Painting Guide:

 

http://www.angelfire.com/mech/jinsaotome/P...intingTips.html

 

Everything you need to know about painting your customs and some neat little tricks too. Enjoy!

[ARROW]

Nice work Jim.

 

One thing you did not mention is an important addendum to dry-brushing--in that it will ruin a good brush, so its best to use a cheap or old brush to dry-brush.

 

Also might want to mention using fixatives on the finished paint job too.

 

-Ken

[Jin Saotome]

Hehe, it's Jin with an "n" but you were close!

 

I dunno, I've been using my 2 large Camel Hair brushes for drybrushing for the last 8 years or so and they haven't shown much wear. Perhaps it's the quality of the brush. I found that the cheaper bristle brushes (like those craft brushes) didn't apply the paint nearly as good as my camel hair ones. I also don't grind the bristles against the surface too hard, so that may be a factor too. I have worn out the cheaper brushes in the past tho.

 

When you say "fixatives" do you mean "clear sealer"? Because I'm against using any kind of sealer on a finished action figure. (thanks for mentioning that tho, because I have to ammend that to my page!) When you use good paints and apply a good wash, the paint won't rub off ever. If you're talking about using the sealer to protect against physical damage such as scuffing, there's factors to both sides.

 

1. Without a sealer applied, paint can be marred or scratched, but you can always paint over it again.

 

2. With a sealer applied, paint chips off in sections when struck because the sealer essentially melts the paint when sprayed on, making it more like a hard shell. The only exception to this is brush-on acrylic gloss.

 

Thanks for bringing these points up, I've ammended my page with them!

[PixelDan]

Thanks Jin! I'll definatly be reading over this to try and improve my work!

[los5o7]

DAMN Jin.... DAMN....

 

i say again.... DAMN.....

 

thats what I call giving back to the people..

 

you tha man buddy!

[Degato]

Awesome! Thanks for making that page, Jin!

[DantheMutant]

hey guys quick question, i dont want to open up a totally new thread an waste space so i hope you dont mind me asking here

 

I have seen some pics of figures totally stripped down, all taken apart, how the heck do you get the chest peices apart without things breaking?

 

I think its probably 10 times better painting the parts all by them selfs other that having to hold the figure upside down and side to side to get into those tight places.

 

thanks for you time guys, and thanks Jin for those painting tips!

 

Danny

[los5o7]

for ML,

 

use the boil n pop method, and to pry apart the chest pieces.. try running an exacto along the seams starting at the under-arm.. and carefully work your way around.. then you can use a small screwdriver to pry the chest apart,

[DantheMutant]

so i boil the figure, then push the "ball joint" out of say the elbow? its that simple?

 

thanks for your info!

 

Danny

[Jin Saotome]

You guys can post anything you want here on my thread, hehe.

 

I usually pick one spot on my figure and forcefully jam one of my minature flat-head screwdrivers in there and bust the chest open. I can always go back and file down/fill the hole I made later. That's just me tho, heh. There's a lot easier ways of getting them apart as stated above.

[CHA]

Mighty Jin...I need your help,

 

Your super glue in the joint to prevent scraping, do you apply/spread the super glue first then paint or paint the joint, let it dry then super glue.

 

Your help is well appreciated.

[Jin Saotome]

You paint the joint, then apply the superglue over the paint after it's fully dried. You're making a shell over the paint using the glue, kinda like a gloss coating.

[CHA]

You paint the joint, then apply the superglue over the paint after it's fully dried. You're making a shell over the paint using the glue, kinda like a gloss coating.

Okay thanks. One more question if you don't mind, or you familiar with decoupage (sp?). If you are, what are some good tips. I'm trying to put logos on "civilian" figs but don't really want to mess it up.

[Jin Saotome]

You mean like stickers? There's different techniques for applying symbols and such but it depends on what you're making them out of. I usually paint my logos by hand but you can make your own stickers with your printer if it prints small enough. Is that what you're talking about?

[DantheMutant]

Jin

 

I just recently posted a question like this in a different thread i hope you dont mind me asking again.

 

the testors paint, can I put that in my airbrush?

 

have you ever used an airbrush to paint figures?

 

I really need to work on my painting skills, I used apple barrel acryls on my pryo and it looks awesome from 4 ft away but once you get close its got a caulky look. any ideas or tricks?

 

Danny

 

thanks

[Jin Saotome]

I use to own an airbrush but I never really liked the airbrushed-effect on figures. So instead I honed my painting abilities to surpass what I could do with an airbrush and substitued my other techniques instead.

 

You can use testor's paint in an airbrush, just thin it down with a drop or two of water when you put it in the paint cup. Airbrushed effects can turn out very well, and they're actually the best when you're painting something large like a statue or resin kit. Wash's and drybrushing are good for smaller scale things like action figures, anything over 12" with detail an airbrush should be used for shading and such.

 

Yeah, a lot of people I hear use apple barrel paints. Time to take it to the next step and buy some Testors Acrylics and Games Workshop paints my friend!

[kj6754]

jin what brand of chrome spray paint do you recommend using? I want to re-paint my silver surfer and colossus

[Jin Saotome]

I don't use Spray on paint for chrome, I use the Testors Armored Steel or Games Workshop's Mithril Silver. However there's a thread here http://adctalk.com/index.php?showtopic=1953941 where BobM repainted his colossus. Ask him what that Spray Chrome brand is. Ask him if it dried well or stayed sticky tho, I've always had a problem with pray paints reacting with plastic.

[psymount]

you familiar with decoupage (sp?). If you are, what are some good tips. I'm trying to put logos on "civilian" figs but don't really want to mess it up.

I do a LOT of detailing in my backdrops and diorama's using decopage techniques. . Mod Podge works well for that - altho I have used "Hard as Nails" fingernail polish before to bring out the colors in a stained glass effect. Copy and print out the item you want to deco on. Carefully cut it out and check to make sure it's size proportionate to what you're working on. Lay down a thin layer of whateve adhesive you're using. Then carefully work it into place. Start at one corner and work you're way up, being carefull not to get any air bubbles. Once you're sure the adhesive is dry - then put another coat over the top so it's sealed. I tried that technique to put an X on the belt of a custom Iceman using superglue and it worked fairly well. Better than my painting attempts. Experiment first before you risk ruining something you've put a lot of time and effort into.

[redrum2581]

this is great info thanks jin

[Skips]

Sweet. I was just going to ask about painting apps. Thanks man!

[puddingstick]

a quick question where in the hell do you find those testors model master and the game workshop paints

thanx

[puddingstick]

and i mean other than ordering online or is that the only way?

[rust]

Bookmarked. I need to keep this page in mind when I make my Captain Marvel Custom!

That is an extremely good page, I learned a lot about painting. Thank every god that you made it.

 

Also, Puddingstick, there's a magic button to fix your post, so there's no need for posting twice.

[puddingstick]

oh haha oops....thanx for letting me know that